Morning well spent at Thiruvanamthapuram!

We had an official visit to the capital city of Kerala, Thiruvanamthapuram. As it was an official trip we didn't get much time to roam around. So we spent only one day morning visiting the famous Padmanabhaswamy temple and Pazhavangadi Ganapathy temple.

Pazhavangadi Ganapathy Temple:

The Pazhavangadi Maha Ganapathy temple is situated at East Fort in the heart of Thiruvananthapuram City. The main Deity of the temple is Lord Ganapathy. The temple is situated in close proximity to Padmanabhaswamy temple.

As we reached East Fort at around 7:30 and at this time Padmanabhaswamy temple visit is restricted only to family of Maharaja(King) we went straight to visit Pazhavangadi Ganapathy temple. Currently renovation work is going on in this temple so we could not take any pictures. So I searched for some pictures from Google and found one picture which I felt will be apt for this post. 

Padmanabhaswamy temple:

Sree Padmanabhaswamy temple is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu located in Thiruvananthapuram, India. The shrine is currently run by a trust headed by the royal family of Travancore. The principal deity, Padmanabhaswamy(Lord Vishnu), is enshrined in the "Anantha-sayanam" posture (in the eternal sleep of Yoga-nidra on the serpent Anantha). 

This divine temple is one of the very few temples in India where the entry is restricted  to people that practice the Hindu faith. Strict dress code needs to be followed by the pilgrims. Gents are supposed to wear Dhothi. Shirts/banyan are not allowed. Ladies should wear Saree or full length skirt. You are not allowed to carry mobile phones, tablets, laptops, cameras or any other electronic gadgets. There is locker facility provided within the premises where you could keep your mobile,shirt,etc. Photography is strictly prohibited within the premises of the temple. There are shops at the premises which sells Dhothi incase you didn't have one. 

Six huge secret Kallaras or vaults were discovered in this temple which were named A, B, C, D, E and F. The doors were iron-made. A committee members arranged by Supreme Court took utmost toil and hard work to open the secret vaults, and what they revealed was beyond human imagination―bags full of ancient gold coins, diamonds, gemstones, very heavy and huge gold and diamond necklaces. 

The portals of Vault B remained locked despite all efforts made by the committee to open it. Of all the six vaults, the Bharatakkon Kallara or Chamber B is believed to be deeply rooted to God Padmanabhaswamy. 

Darshan Timing:

Morning

03.15 am to 04.15 am (Nirmalya Darshanam)

06.30 am to 07.00 am

08.30 am to 09.15 am

Evening

05.00 pm to 06.15 pm

06.45 pm to 07.20 pm

We stayed at The Central Residency at Manorama road, Thambanoor. I would like to tell you guys the food(complementary breakfast) was really good with a real good service at restaurant.

Few destinations in and around Trissur part 1!

Kodungallur Devi Temple:

Sree Kurumba Bhagavati Temple or Kodungallur Devi Temple is a Hindu temple at Kodungallur, Thrissur District, Kerala. It is dedicated to the goddess Bhadrakali, a form of Maha Kali. The temple is surrounded by banyan and peepul trees. 

The temple is famous for a strange festival known as Kodungallur Bharani which is held in the Malayalam month of Meenam (March/April). Bharani is the second star in the Malayalam calendar and the festival takes place on that day. This festival is mainly observed by the lower castes and has a lot of ceremonies. A large congregation of human oracles known as Velichapads, of both sexes come to participate in this interesting festival. The velichapad is a common feature of all Devi temples but normally they are all males. This temple is unique as a lot of these velichapads who come to participate in this ritual are females. Normally they get into states of ecstasy and are able to foretell the future of the devotees who approach them.

The festival officially opens with the ritual 'Kozhikkallu moodal' on the Thiruvonam day of the month of Meenam.  The ritual involves sacrificing a cock on a red silk cloth placed near two stones that stand covered with sand outside the path on which devotees go round the temple. The members of the Kodungallur Bhagavathy family have the right to perform this ritual. The first cock is offered by the Thacholi clan, the ancestors of the popular hero Thacholi Othenan from Vadakara in North Kerala. The ceremony symbolizes the beginning of the fight between the goddess and the demon Daruka. The Goddess, Kali and her dependants are supposed to revel in blood. Hence the sacrifice of the cocks form an important part of this festival.

On the first day of Meenam, starting with Ashwathi, (the first star of Malayalam month) the goddess is supposed to be having her monthly period. This is known as “Kavu Theendal", and is the most important event of the Bharani festival. It is overseen by the King of Kodungallur. A red ceremonial umbrella is unfolded over the king's head. This is the signal to begin the ritual.

Songs containing abusive language called Bharani pattu is sung by the devotees. Oracles yell out lewd, bawdy, abusive cries at the goddess, which is said to please her.

This is a peculiar part of this festival. Perhaps this was a psychological method to bring out all the suppressed and depressed negativity in the minds of the devotees into the open in a way which was socially acceptable. This incredible event called kaavu theendal forms the main part of the annual Bharani festival. 

Some of the oracles go into a frenzy and break open their heads with their swords. The uncontrollable bleeding is stopped by the application of turmeric into the wound. This not only stops the bleeding but closes the wound so well that no trace of it is left. The velichappads and their followers display all their talent until they are totally exhausted and at last they fall before the king for his blessing.

Following the custom which was prevalent in Kerala of cleansing the house after the menstruation period of the women, the temple remains closed to the public for a week. Its doors reopen after the 'purificatory' rituals are conducted to cleanse the shrine of the 'stain' of Kavu Theendal. The purification ceremony is conducted on Kartika day, the next day after the Bharani. The premises of the temple and its vicinity are swept clean and the wells purified. In the evening, the eastern door is opened and the inner precincts are swept clear. This is the only time when Nampoodiri (Kerala Brahmins) priests are allowed to go in and perform the 'punnyaham' or purification ceremony. They also give away Pasu Dhanam or gift of cows as an adjunct of the purification ceremony. The usual daily poojas are resumed from the next day onwards. 

At the intervention of many social reformers, the government of Kerala has banned animal sacrifice in any form at this place.

In olden days when small pox used to claim countless lives, Kodungalloor Bhagavati was the only recourse for hundreds of people. Even today on the left side of the temple, on the outer courtyard you will find a small idol known as “vasuri mala.” “Vasuri” in Malayalam means small pox. A woman normally stands there and invites us to put a pinch of rice bran over the idol. This is meant to ward off the dreaded disease.

Temple timing:

Morning: 4AM to 12PM

Evening : 4PM to 8PM

Vadakkechira :

Vadakkechira is one of the four oldest ponds in Thrissur city of Kerala in India. It was built by Shakthan Thampuran and is one of Thrissur's famous landmarks. Vadakkechira is home to many species.

We were totally disappointed on reaching this spot as the site was not properly maintained and it was closed for visitors. So if anyone planning to visit Vadakkechira you can skip it from your list.

Sobha City Mall:

Sobha City Mall is a shopping mall in Sobha City, Puzhakkal, Thrissur district of Kerala. The Mall opened on 2015. The mall is centrally air-conditioned and have a six screen multiplex by INOX, food courts and lot of shopping areas.

Pambummekkattu Temple/Pambummekkattu Mana:

Pambummekkattu Mana, situates at Vadama near Mala Town, Mukundapuram Taluk in Thrissur District, Kerala. The gate tower of the Pambummekkattu Mana is embedded with snake statues as a welcome posture. Normally the Manas are Nalukettu. But, the Pambummekkattu  Mana here is Ettukettu – two Naluketts. 

Gate tower of Mana

It is believed that the divine presence of “Vasuki” and “Nagayakshi” are there in the “Kizhakkini” of Pambummekkattu Mana. Daily poojas are offered to Nagaraja and Naga Yakshi residing in the eastern portion of Mekkattu Mana. The Pambu Mekkattu is spread over six acres of land with five sarpakavu (a grove where Goddess Kali and Serpant Gods are worshipped). The Mekkattu Namboodiri’s also treated the outsiders but now due to the advance in medical science people rarely comes for it.

The oldest member of the family is the head of the Mana. Members who have covered teenage are given administrative power. A trust is formed and each trustee will get an year’s administration. The mantras and the rituals are passed from one generation to another orally. The members of the family are bound to follow the rules. The devotees are to strictly follow the instruction of the administrator. When something affects the sanctity of the premises, poojas (rituals) will be restarted only after “Punyaham” (cleansing). When such things happen snakes are seen in waste ditch, indicating impurity.

There is all time burning oil-lamp (Kedavilakku). The Prasadam given to the devotees is the oil from the lamp. The oil Prasadam has the power to cure the diseases caused due to the curse of snakes. 

One of the worshipped area 

Worshipping the serpents is a tradition of Kerala, and unlike other temples, this temple is not flung open all the days of the year, preferably the devotees are allowed inside the Pambumekkattu Mana only for a few days.

Picture taken from Pambummekat blog

It is open only during the first of Malayalam months barring Malayalam months of Mithunam,Karkadakom and Chingam and is also open on Serpent God's favourite day of "Ayilliyam" in the Malayalam month of Kanni, Thiruonam to Barani in the Malayalam month of Meenam and the 10th day of Medam.

Special Occasions

1. First of the month of Vrishchikam(mid November).

2. Ayilyam in the month of Kanni(mid sept-mid oct).

3. From Thiruvonam to Bharani in the month of Meenam (mid March to Mid April).

4. Tenth of the month of Medam(mid of April).

How Mekkatu Mana becomes pambummekkat Mana:

There are legends about how Mekkattu Mana became Pambum Mekkattu Mana. Some legends connected with the lllam and the people there goes like this: The members in Pambummekkattu Mana were great devotees and experts in rituals and mystic spell. Still, their stark poverty made it difficult for them to meet their daily bread. At this juncture, one Namboori from the family went to the famous Thiruvanchikulam Temple and started praying to God seeking redemption from their dire verty.

Month and years passed, and one night, the Namboori had a wonderful experience. As his continuous worship was nearing twelfth year, one night he went to the sacred pond in the temple premises to fetch some water after everybody has left the temple. He was astonished to see a saintly figure standing on the steps at that peek hour and asked "Who is that?" The figure replied, "What Mekadu has to do with that? If you want water, fetch it and go." Namboori stood there spellbound because from the appearance and words of the person, he was sure that the figure is not of an ordinary human being. Then he saw something  sparkling in the hands of that saintly figure and asked him "What is it?" The person's answer was a question, "Has Mekkadu seen Ruby?" When the Namboori said "No" the person asked whether he would like to see it. When he said "Yes" the person passed the precious stone to the Namboori. The stone impressed him so much that he wanted to show it to his friend Kodungallore Valiya Thampuran (a kingly status). He sought the Godly figure's permission. The figure gave permission on condition that the Namboori would come back soon.

The Thampuran was very much impressed by the Ruby that he wanted to keep it for himself. He was ready to purchase it at any price. But the Namboori was  adamant not to break his word. So the Thampuran gave it back though unwillingly. Namboori reached back on time and handed over the Ruby to the person, suddenly he disappeared and the place which was bright like day light due to the glow of the ruby now turned dark. Fear and darkness ensnarled the Namboori. Within seconds he regained his sense and sight. He stepped in the sacred pond, fetched water and went back. The Godly person's identity haunted the Namboori and so he could not sleep that night. He blamed himself for not asking the person who he was; for person who had entrusted the Ruby with him, at least for some time, would surely have revealed his identity. The Namboori laid down thinking sadly about his foolishness.

At some point sleep caressed him. The Namboori woke up within Minutes and seeing the moon light he thought it was already dawn. He felt that it was already late for his bath and rushed to the sacred pond. Again, a person was standing there. Namboori as earlier asked "Who is that?" And the figure replied "What has Mekkad to do with that? Go and sleep. It is not time to take bath. It is not yet dawn." The Namboori recognized the voice and the saintly figure. He fell on the Godly figure's feet and requested "Upon Lord Shiva, reveal your identity." When Namboori mouthed Lord Shiva's name the person had no other go but to reveal his identity. He said "I am Vasuki." Then the Namboori expressed his wish to see Vasuki's real figure. Vasuki was sure that his real figure would frighten the Namboori. But, when the Namboori insisted, he shrinked his body to the size of a ring on Lord Shiva's finger.

The Namboori was shuddered at that sight and fainted. After few minutes, he regained consciousness. Then Vasuki asked, "What boon do you want?" "I wish your presence in my lllam always. Please put an end to my poverty. I have no other request," this was the Namboori's reply. Vasuki consented to his and said "Only three days remain to complete your twelve years' worship. You go back to your lllam after that. Meantime I will get the permission of Lord Shiva and will come to your Mana. Now it’s time for your Bath. Don't delay," Vasuki disappeared saying this.

Namboori completed his worship and returned to his lllam. He went to take bath and perform daily rituals by keeping his 'Olakkuda' (An umbrella made of palm leaves) in the 'Kizhakini' (Eastern portion of the house). When he came back, he saw a snake on the umbrella and was frightened. The snake came down, took the shape of the saintly person and said, "Mekkadu, don't fear. I am Vasuki. Lord Shiva is very much pleased at your honesty and sincere devotion. I am here on Lord's will. Take this Ruby which I have shown you the first day we met. Keep it here safely. As long as this Ruby remains here, poverty will not affect your Mana." Vasuki handed over the ruby to the Namboori and continued, "A Nagayakshi (serpent Goddess) will also reach here soon. Don't get feared to see her."

At this juncture, the eldest lady of the lllam, came from outside after attending a feast in a relative's home. She went inside keeping her umbrella in the verandah. Suddenly, a snake came out from that umbrella and went to the 'kizhakkini'. There it took the shape of a beautiful lady and stood close to vasuki. "Make idols of the two of us and placing them in this 'kizhakinni', daily rituals are to be performed. Consider us as the family Gods of Mekkattu Mana," continued Vasuki, "If you do so, prosperity will not leave your family. More snakes will come here and they will live somewhere in the compound. Only give freedom for them to live anywhere in this house and its compound. Special spaces are to be kept to pass urine and faeces. Spitting and washing hands in the courtyard or in the compound are not permitted. Fire should be set only in the kitchen hearth. Digging of the soil in the courtyard or in the compound is not allowed. Another house should be constructed in the next compound. Special functions are to be conducted there.

The ladies should not remain here at the time of menstruation and pregnancy. They should go to the other house. Snakes might be seen in this house and premises. But nobody should fear because those snakes will not bite the members of this house unless somebody stamps feet on them. By chance if any member gets snake site, the venom will not affect his/her body but will affect the snake back. In such cases, proper treatment should be given to the snake. Otherwise the snake may die. If the snakes bite some outsider, the family members should not treat. But treatment should be given to those suffering from diseases due to anger of snakes. Two lamps are to be lighted day-night in this 'Kizhakkini'. The oil in the lamp and the collyrium formed by continuous burning of the wick will be excellent medicine for skin diseases owing to rage of snake Gods. This information is to be passed through generations of Mekkatu Mana." Vasuki and Nagayakshi disappeared saying all this and promising to come back when the Namboori desires.

The Namboori installed the Serpent Gods in the Kizhakkini as per Vasuki's instruction. From that day, the 'Mekkattu family' came to be known as 'Pambummekkattu'. The family knew no poverty from the day Vasuki was placed in the house. Moreover their wealth increased gradually. The fame of Pambummekkattu family spread world wide. The belief became firm among people that skin diseases or other problems due to wrath of snake Gods have solutions in Mekkattu Mana.